Short answer
Layer height is the thickness of each slice of plastic, and it is the single setting that trades surface finish against print time. 0.2mm suits most parts and is our default. Choose 0.1mm when curves and detail are the point - figurines, display pieces, gifts. Choose 0.3mm for quick, cheap prototype fits. Going from 0.2mm to 0.1mm roughly doubles the print time on tall parts; 0.2mm to 0.3mm cuts it by about a third.
What layer height actually is
An FDM printer builds by extruding flat ribbons of plastic, one on top of the next, until the model is complete. Layer height is the thickness of each ribbon. A 60mm tall part printed at 0.2mm is a stack of 300 layers; at 0.1mm it is 600 layers; at 0.3mm, 200.
Each layer takes roughly the same time to draw no matter how thin it is, so layer count is what drives print time - and with it, the machine-time part of your quote (₹1.5 per minute of print time; the full formula is on our pricing page). Halving the layer height doubles the number of layers, which is why quality has a visible price tag while remaining cheap in absolute terms on small parts.
There is also a physical ceiling to how thick a layer can be: our 0.4mm nozzles cannot reliably extrude a ribbon thicker than about 0.32mm. That is why the slider stops at 0.3mm - it is the practical draft setting for this hardware, not an arbitrary choice.
The three settings, side by side
| Setting | Surface | Time vs 0.2mm | Choose it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.1mm · Fine | Curves and slopes look nearly smooth; finest detail | ≈ 2× longer | Figurines, miniatures, jewellery, awards, anything displayed close-up |
| 0.2mm · Standard | Clean everywhere; layer lines visible but tidy | 1× (baseline) | Enclosures, brackets, organisers, phone stands - most functional parts |
| 0.3mm · Draft | Visible banding on curves; softer small-detail edges | ≈ 33% faster | First prototypes, fit checks, hidden internal parts, quick iterations |
Where the difference actually shows
Layer height only affects surfaces that cross layers - slopes, curves, and rounded edges. Print a straight vertical wall at any setting and it looks the same, because the wall is just stacked flat ribbons facing you. The "stair-stepping" you may have seen on 3D prints happens on a 45° slope: at 0.3mm each step is a visible ledge, at 0.1mm the steps are three times finer and read as smooth from any normal viewing distance.
The practical rule: the more curve, the more 0.1mm buys you. A figurine's face, a sphere, a sculpted vase - dramatic improvement. A rectangular enclosure with drilled holes - no visible difference, and 0.2mm leaves more money for material or a second copy. And if you plan to sand and paint the part anyway, primer fills layer lines: print at 0.2mm and spend the savings on paint.
What it does to the price
Layer height moves only the print-time component of the quote - material weight is unchanged, so infill and shipping are unaffected. On a part that takes 3 hours at 0.2mm:
- At 0.1mm: about 6 hours → machine time roughly doubles (₹270 of print time becomes about ₹540 at ₹1.5/min).
- At 0.3mm: about 2 hours → machine time drops by about a third.
The absolute numbers shrink fast on small models - on a 30-minute keychain, Fine quality costs a few rupees more, not double the order. The preview on the upload page recalculates the exact figure for your model the moment you switch settings.
How to choose in five seconds
Frequently asked questions
Is 0.1mm layer height always better quality?
Only on sloped and curved surfaces, where finer layers shrink the visible stair-stepping. On straight vertical walls every layer height looks essentially identical - the lines are already as subtle as they get. So a cube gains nothing from 0.1mm, while a figurine's face or a curved vase gains a lot.
Which layer height makes the strongest part?
The differences are small. Very thick layers (0.3mm) bond slightly worse than thinner ones, and 0.1mm squeezes out a small edge on interlayer strength - but both effects are dwarfed by print orientation, since a part always separates between layers more easily than along them. If strength matters, orient the part well and read our design guidelines before fine-tuning layer height.
Why not just print everything at 0.3mm since it is cheaper?
Draft quality earns its name. Screw holes, snap-fit grooves, and small details lose definition at 0.3mm, and curved surfaces show clear banding. For a first prototype to check sizing, it is the right tool. For anything that will be seen, used, or fitted to another part, 0.2mm is the better deal.
Can I compare prices at different layer heights before ordering?
Yes. On the upload page, change the layer height and hit Calculate Quote again - the price updates instantly, so you can see exactly what fine quality costs on your specific model before deciding.
Does layer height change the weight or shipping cost?
No. The same amount of plastic goes into the part at any layer height - only the thickness of each slice changes. Weight, material cost, and shipping stay the same; what moves is the machine time.